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You have most likely heard the term K.I.S.S. (Keep It Simple Stupid). We are going to attempt to explain how lead acid batteries work and what they need without burying you with a bunch of needless technical data. Actually we have found that battery manufacturer’s data will vary somewhat so we must generalize in some cases.
The commercial use of the lead acid battery is over 100 years old. The same chemical principal is being used to create energy that our Great, Great, Grandparents may have used.
If you can grasp the basics you will have fewer battery problems and will gain greater battery performance, reliability, and longevity.
We suggest you read the entire tutorial, however we have indexed all the information for a quick read and easy reference.
A battery is like a piggy bank. If you keep taking out and putting nothing back you soon will have nothing.
Present day chassis battery power requirements are huge. Look at today’s vehicle and all the electrical devices that must be supplied. Electronics require a source of reliable power. Poor battery condition can cause expensive electronic component failure.
Average battery life has become shorter as energy requirements have increased. Life span depends on usage; 6 months to 48 months, yet only 30% of all batteries actually reach the 48-month mark.
A Few Basics
The Lead Acid battery is made up of plates, lead, and lead oxide (various other elements are used to change density, hardness, porosity, etc. with a 35% sulfuric acid and 65% water solution. This solution is called electrolyte which causes a chemical reaction that produce electrons.
When you test a battery with a hydrometer you are measuring the amount of sulfuric acid in the electrolyte. If your reading is low, that means the chemistry that makes electrons is lacking. So where did the sulfur go? It is resting to the battery plates and when you recharge the battery the sulfur returns to the electrolyte.
- Battery types, Deep Cycle and Starting
- Wet Cell, Gel-Cell and Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM)
- CCA, CA, AH and RC; what’s that all about?
- Battery Maintenance
- Battery Testing
- Selecting and Buying a New Battery
- Battery Life and Performance
- Battery Charging
- Battery Do’s
- Battery Don’ts
1. We must think safety when we are working around and with batteries. Remove all jewellery. After all you don’t want to melt your watchband while you are wearing the watch. The hydrogen gas that batteries make when charging is very explosive. We heard of two cases where the batteries have blown up and drench people in sulphuric acid.
This is a good time to use those safety goggles that are hanging on the wall. Sulphuric Acid eats up clothing and you may want to select Polyester clothing to wear, as it is naturally acid resistant. When doing electrical work on boats and vehicles it is best to disconnect the ground cable. Just remember you are messing with corrosive acid, explosive gases and 100’s amps of electrical current.
2. Basically there are two types of batteries; starting (cranking), and deep cycle (marine/golf cart). The starting battery (SLI starting lights ignition) is designed to deliver quick bursts of energy (such as starting engines) and have a greater plate count. The plates will also be thinner and have somewhat different material composition. The deep cycle battery has less instant energy but greater long-term energy delivery. Deep cycle batteries have thicker plates and can survive a number of discharge cycles. Starting batteries should not be used for deep cycle applications. The so-called Dual Purpose Battery is only a compromise between the 2 types of batteries.
3. Wet Cell (flooded), Gel Cell, and Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) are various versions of the lead acid battery. The wet cell comes in 2 styles; serviceable, and maintenance free. Both are filled with electrolyte and most people prefer one that they can add water, and check the specific gravity of the electrolyte with a hydrometer.
The Gel Cell and the AGM batteries are specialty batteries that typically cost twice as much as a premium wet cell. However they store very well and do not tend to sulfate or degrade as easily or as easily as wet cell. There is little chance of a hydrogen gas explosion or corrosion when using these batteries; these are the safest lead acid batteries you can use. Gel Cell and some AGM batteries may require a special charging rate. Careful consideration should be given to the AGM battery technology for applications such as Marine, RV, Solar, Audio, Power Sports and Stand-By Power just to name a few.
If you don’t use or operate your equipment daily; this can lead to premature battery failure; or depend on top-notch battery performance then spend the extra money. Gel Cell batteries still are being sold but the AGM batteries are replacing them in most applications. There is a little confusion about AGM batteries because different manufactures call them different names; some of the popular ones are sealed regulated valve, dry cell, non-spillable, and sealed lead acid batteries. In most cases AGM batteries will give greater life span and greater cycle life than a wet cell battery.
SPECIAL NOTE about Gel Batteries: It is very common for individuals to use the term GEL CELL when referring to sealed, maintenance free batteries, much like one would use Kleenex when referring to facial tissue or “Xerox machine” when referring to a copy machine. Be very careful when specifying a battery charger, many times we are told by customer they are requiring a charger for a Gel Cell battery and in fact the battery is not a Gel Cell.
AGM: The Absorbed Glass Matt construction allows the electrolyte to be suspended in close proximity with the plates active material. In theory, this enhances both the discharge and recharge efficiency. Actually, the AGM batteries are a variant of Sealed VRLA batteries. Popular usage high performance engine starting, power sports, deep cycle, solar and storage battery. AGM batteries mostly sold are typically good deep cycle batteries and they deliver best life performance if recharged before the battery drops below the 50 percent discharge rate. If these AGM batteries are discharged to a rate of 100 percent the cycle life will be 300 plus cycles and this is true of most AGM batteries rated as deep cycle batteries.
GEL: The gel cell is similar to the AGM style because the electrolyte is suspended, but different because technically the AGM battery is still considered to be a wet cell. The electrolyte in a GEL cell has a silica additive that causes it to set up or stiffen. The recharge voltages on this type of cell are lower than the other styles of lead acid battery. This is probably the most sensitive cell in terms of adverse reactions to over-voltage charging. Gel Batteries are best used in VERY DEEP cycle application and may last a bit longer in hot weather applications. If the incorrect battery charger is used on a Gel Cell battery poor performance and premature failure is certain.
4. CCA, CA, AH and RC what are these all about? Well these are the standards that most battery companies use to rate the output and capacity of a battery.
Cold cranking amps (CCA) is a measurement of the number of amps a battery can deliver at 0° F (-17.78° C) for 30 seconds and not drop below 7.2 volts. So a high CCA battery rating is good especially in cold weather.
CA is cranking amps measured at 32° F (0° C). This rating is also called marine cranking amps (MCA).
Hot cranking amps (HCA) is seldom used any longer but is measured at 80° F (26.67° C).
Reserve Capacity (RC) is a very important rating. This is the number of minutes a fully charged battery at 80° F (26.67° C) will discharge 25 amps until the battery drops below 10.5 volts.
An amp hour (AH) is a rating usually found on deep cycle batteries. If a battery is rated at 100 amp hours it should deliver 5 amps for 20 hours, 20 amps for 5 hours, etc.
5. Battery Maintenance is an important issue. The battery should be cleaned using a baking soda and water mix; a couple of table spoons to 500ml of water. Cable connection needs to be clean and tightened. Many battery problems are caused by dirty and loose connections. A serviceable battery needs to have the fluid level checked. Use only mineral free water, Distilled water is best. Don’t overfill battery cells especially in warmer weather. The natural fluid expansion in hot weather will push excess electrolytes from the battery.
To prevent corrosion of cables on top post batteries use a small bead of silicon sealer at the base of the post and place a felt battery washer over it. Coat the washer with high temperature grease or petroleum jelly (Vaseline), then place cable on the post and tighten. Coat the exposed cable end with the grease. Most folks don’t know that just the gases from the battery condensing on metal parts cause most corrosion.
6. Battery Testing can be done in more than one way. The most popular is measurement of specific gravity and battery voltage. To measure specific gravity buy a temperature compensating hydrometer and measure voltage, use a digital D.C. Voltmeter. A good digital load tester may be a good purchase if you need to test batteries sealed batteries.
You must first have the battery fully charged. The surface charge must be removed before testing. If the battery has been sitting at least several hours (I prefer at least 12 hours) you may begin testing. To remove surface charge the battery must experience a load of 20 amps for 3 plus minutes. If testing a car battery – simply turning on the headlights (high beam) will do the trick. After turning off the lights you are ready to test the battery.
*Sulfation of Batteries starts when specific gravity falls below 1.225 or voltage measures less than 12.4 (12v Battery) or 6.2 (6 volt battery). Sulfation hardens the battery plates reducing and eventually destroying the ability of the battery to generate Volts and Amps.
Load testing is yet another way of testing a battery. Load test removes amps from a battery much like starting an engine would. A load tester can be purchased at most auto parts stores. Some battery companies label their battery with the amp load for testing. This number is usually 1/2 of the CCA rating. For instance, a 500CCA battery would load test at 250 amps for 15 seconds. A load test can only be performed if the battery is near or at full charge.
The results of your testing should be as follows:
Hydrometer readings should not vary more than .05 differences between cells.
Digital Voltmeters should read as the voltage is shown in this document. The sealed AGM and Gel-Cell battery voltage (full charged) will be slightly higher in the 12.8 to 12.9 ranges. If you have voltage readings in the 10.5 volts range on a charged battery, that indicates a shorted cell.
If you have a maintenance free wet cell, the only ways to test are voltmeter and load test. Most of the maintenance free batteries have a built in hydrometer that tells you the condition of 1 cell of 6. You may get a good reading from 1 cell but have a problem with other cells in the battery.
When in doubt about battery testing, call the battery manufacturer. Many batteries sold today have a toll free number to call for help.
7. Selecting a Battery – When buying a new battery I suggest you purchase a battery with the greatest reserve capacity or amp hour rating possible. Of course the physical size, cable hook up, and terminal type must be a consideration. You may want to consider a Gel Cell or an Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) rather than a Wet Cell if the application is in a harsher environment or the battery is not going to receive regular maintenance and charging.
Be sure to purchase the correct type of battery for the job it must do. Remember an engine starting battery and deep cycle batteries are different. Freshness of a new battery is very important. The longer a battery sits and is not re-charged the more damaging sulfation build up there may be on the plates. Most batteries have a date of manufacture code on them. The month is indicated by a letter ‘A’ being January and a number ‘6’ being 2006. C6 would tell us the battery was manufactured in March 2006. Remember the fresher the better. The letter “i” is not used because it can be confused with #1.
Battery warranties are figured in the favor of battery manufactures. Let’s say you buy a 60-month warranty battery and it lives 41 months. The warranty is pro-rated so when taking the months used against the full retail price of the battery you end up paying about the same money as if you purchased the battery at the sale price.
8. Battery life and performance – Average battery life has become shorter as energy requirements have increased. Only 30% of batteries sold today reach the 48-month mark. In fact 80% of all battery failure is related to sulfation build-up. This build up occurs when the sulfur molecules in the electrolyte (battery acid) become so deeply discharged that they begin to coat the battery’s lead plates. Before long the plates become so coated that the battery dies.
The causes of sulfation are numerous.
- Batteries sit too long between charges. As little as 24 hours in hot weather and several days in cooler weather.
- Battery is stored without some type of energy input.
- “Deep cycling” an engine starting battery. Remember these batteries can’t stand deep discharge.
- Undercharging of a battery, to charge a battery (lets say) to 90% of capacity will allow sulfation of the battery using the 10% of battery chemistry not reactivated by the incomplete charging cycle.
- Heat of 100 plus F or C, increases internal discharge. As temperatures increase so does internal discharge. A new fully charged battery left sitting 24 hours a day at 110° F (43.33° C) for 30 days would most likely not start an engine.
- Low electrolyte level – battery plates exposed to air will immediately sulfate.
- Incorrect charging levels and settings. Most cheap battery chargers can do more harm than good. See the section on battery charging.
- Cold weather is also hard on the battery. The chemistry does not make the same amount of energy as a warm battery. A deeply discharged battery can freeze solid in sub zero weather.
- Parasitic drain is a load put on a battery with the key off. More info on parasitic drain will follow in this document.
There are ways to greatly increase battery life and performance. All the products we sell are targeted to improve performance and battery life.
An example: Let’s say you have “toys”; an ATV, classic car, antique car, boat, Harley, etc. You most likely don’t use these toys 365 days a year as you do your car. Many of these toys are seasonal so they are stored. What happens to the batteries? Most batteries that supply energy to power our toys only last 2 seasons. You must keep these batteries from sulfating or buy new ones.
Parasitic drain is a load put on a battery with the key off. Most vehicles have clocks, engine management computers, alarm systems, etc. In the case of a boat you may have an automatic bilge pump, radio, GPS, etc. These devices may all be operating without the engine running. You may have parasitic loads caused by a short in the electrical system. If you are always having dead battery problems most likely the parasitic drain is excessive. The constant low or dead battery caused by excessive parasitic energy drain will dramatically shorten battery life.
9. Battery Charging – Remember you must put back the energy you use immediately. If you don’t the battery sulfates and that affects performance and longevity. The alternator is a battery charger. It works well if the battery is not deeply discharged. The alternator tends to overcharge batteries that are very low and the overcharge can damage batteries. In fact an engine starting battery on average has only about 10 deep cycles available when recharged by an alternator. Batteries like to be charged in a certain way, especially when they have been deeply discharged. This type of charging is called 3 step regulated charging.
Please note that only special SMART CHARGERS using computer technology can perform 3 step charging techniques. You don’t find these types of chargers in a spare parts stores or K-Mart.
The first step is bulk charging where up to 80% of the battery energy capacity is replaced by the charger at the maximum voltage and current amp rating of the charger. When the battery voltage reaches 14.4 volts this begins the absorption charge step. This is where the voltage is held at a constant 14.4 volts and the current (amps) declines until the battery is 98% charged.
Next comes the Float Step. This is a regulated voltage of not more than 13.4 volts and usually less than 1 amp of current. This in time will bring the battery to 100% charged or close to it. The float charge will not boil or heat batteries but will maintain the batteries at 100% readiness and prevent cycling during long term inactivity. Some gel cell and AGM batteries may require special settings or chargers.
10. Battery Do’s
Think Safety First.
Do read entire tutorial
Do regular inspection and maintenance especially in hot weather.
Do recharge batteries immediately after discharge.
Do buy the highest RC reserve capacity or AH amp hour battery that will fit your configuration.
11. Battery Don’ts
Don’t forget safety first.
Don’t add new electrolyte (acid).
Don’t use unregulated high output battery chargers to charge batteries.
Don’t place your equipment and toys into storage without some type of device to keep the battery charged.
Don’t disconnect battery cables while the engine is running (your battery acts as a filter).
Don’t put off recharging batteries.
Don’t add tap water as it may contain minerals that will contaminate the electrolyte.
Don’t discharge a battery any deeper than you possibly have to.
Don’t let a battery get hot to the touch and boil violently when charging.
Don’t mix size and types of batteries.